travel

Ah, Venice

/ Julie M. McKinnon / Leave a comment
View of Venice View of Venice from San Giorgio Maggiore.

There really is no good way to describe Venice. Every attempt is trite.

You simply have to see Venice for yourself.

Venice is the primary reason I had long wanted to visit Italy. I frequently joked that I hoped to get to Venice before the series of more than 120 islands succumbed to the lagoon off the Adriatic Sea. That may well happen some day, but Venice will endure for years to come both physically and in my heart after spending several wondrous days there.

Sure, the floor in St. Mark’s Basilica is disturbingly uneven from flooding and settling. Not far away, the crypt in the Church of San Zaccaria is underwater much of the time. Both are part of Venice’s allure, along with the canals, gondolas, architecture, views and history.

I may not have a good way to describe Venice, or Venezia, but I have a few tips for visiting:

  • The Doge’s Palace is a must. Make sure to cross over to the prison via the enclosed Bridge of Sighs, which legend has it was named for the sound emitted by prisoners getting their final glimpses of Venice before being executed.View of the enclosed Bridge of Sighs.
  • Don’t plan on visiting the islands of Murano and Burano in the same day, unless you’re really crunched for time. Murano, known for colorful glass, and Burano, known for detailed lace, both deserve several hours to see their respective museums and other attractions.
  • One of the best tips we received from our very helpful hosts at B&B Corte Campana was to get artisanal gelato from Gelatoteca Suso, Calle della Bissa, 5453. Heaven.
  • Mosquitoes abound, and they are juiced. Trust me: Close your windows at night.
  • Make sure to wander, and if the path you’re on ends at a canal, just turn around and head in another direction. You never know what you might see.

To learn about how Venice works, watch this fascinating video also recommended by our bed and breakfast hosts: video.com/21688538

Viewing the World

/ Julie M. McKinnon / 3 Comments
View of the Alhambra in Grenada, Spain.

View of the Alhambra in Granada, Spain.

After spending several hours on the grounds of the Alhambra, site of the last Moorish palace in Spain, you would think I could have called it a day. I was in the mid-13th century fort, the sultan’s gardens and the museum in Charles V’s Palace. I stood in the Palacios Nazaries room where Queen Isabel told Christopher Columbus he could set sail in 1492.

Still, I wanted to see what the Alhambra looked like at sunset from the San Nicolás Viewpoint, reportedly one of former President Bill Clinton’s favorite spots.

Savoring such views, getting to them and the surrounding atmosphere have made a huge impact on my travel experiences. I like to stroll through neighborhoods and really see how people live, not just the tourist sites. I favor grocery stores, parks and markets over endless souvenir shops. I like to look over listings in the windows of real estate offices.

To get to San Nicolás Viewpoint after visiting the Alhambra, we took a roundabout walk on winding streets in Granada’s Moorish district, passing homes and neighborhood businesses. The little park was a bit of a party, with street performers providing entertainment and dreadlocked women selling jewelry. The view of the Alhambra alone certainly was worthwhile, but I recall the climb and ambiance, too.

Climbing often seems to be a requirement for getting a good view. In Salzburg, it wasn’t enough for me to get up to the Hohensalzburg Fortress for a look around. I trudged up another hill to the Museum der Moderne Mönchsberg to see the view recommended by a tour guide. Sure, I could have used the funicular to get to the fortress and an elevator to the modern museum. But then I would have missed many sites and views – and the anticipation. This is the picture of the fortress and Old Town below that I snapped near the modern museum:

Salzburg, Austria

Salzburg, Austria

Once again, the view was definitely worth the extra effort. And a beer garden, tapas bar or other welcoming establishment always seems to be waiting at the bottom of the hill.

A Different Toledo

/ Julie M. McKinnon
Toledo, Spain

View from Museo Victorio Macho in Toledo, Spain.

As a longtime Toledoan, my first visit to Spain had to include time in Toledo. I felt duty-bound.

Actually, the three-day stop in the medieval Spanish city was a glorious highlight of a very memorable trip. Picturesque is only the beginning. Sunset, for example, made the view from Museo Victorio Macho spectacular, bathing the nearby buildings and river gorge in a fiery glow.

My first good look at Toledo, Spain, was on a Sunday night; the quiet added to the mystique. Narrow streets wound by dark shop windows until coming to Toledo’s Cathedral, lit up and surreal towering over the neighborhood.

The Cathedral with its daunting interior and rich art collection is a major tourist attraction. So are the Alcázar, Plaza Zocodover and the old city’s numerous gates and bridges.

Many Americans just take a day trip from Madrid, but Toledo is worth more time. Here are a few other travel tips for Toledo:

  • See El Greco’s “The Burial of the Count of Orgaz” in Santo Tomé. Study the masterpiece, and especially enjoy the artist’s depiction of his son.
  • Stroll around Santa Cruz Museum. Soak in some of the city’s history.
  • Find an artisan who does traditional damascene, black steel inlaid with silver, gold or copper wire for pendants, plates and other decor. Ask for a demonstration.
  • Interact with locals at the market, which is held on Tuesdays. Pick up a scarf or other bargain souvenir.
  • Don’t forget to look for Calle de Toledo de Ohio. It does exist.
Calle de Toledo de Ohio street sign in Toledo, Spain.

Calle de Toledo de Ohio sign in Toledo, Spain.